Day 8 – To God’s holy people in Ephesus,
October 22 -- Ephesus, Turkey
Today’s the last day of archaeological sites! Today was Ephesus. We woke up super early… The sun was even up yet. While the others got breakfast, I got ready. We met up by the elevators and made our way through the other morning early morning crowds to find a gal holding my name on a sign. Ilden would be our tour guide for today. After leading us a few blocks to the taxi stand, we met the driver of our private van and piled in.
She was very knowledgeable about the area and since it was a bit of a drive to get to the site, we talked history, religion, politics…all through an ancient lens of the day. A day when Roman emperors, the apostle John and Peter walked these paths.
Our first stop was the Virgin Mary House. Now, tradition states that a few years before John was exiled, he came to live in this area making shoes. Tradition also states that Mary, the mother of Jesus, came to visit him. This would have been after Jesus’s crucifixion. It was quite interesting how tradition blended with old pagan religion, Christianity, and the local tradition. For instance, the women around the area believe that when you are pregnant, you should go up and pray to the Mary there and she would help you and childbirth. This was actually a carryover from the times of Artemis…so very interesting and fascinating. A modern equivalent for us would be Christmas trees and gifts. How the traditions of the time suddenly mixed with Christianity. Very interesting.
The House of Mary had been turned into a really tiny church about three pews on each side. There is a sarcophagus that tradition states holds her body, and then a small side room for donations. And the side of the house held pictures of the popes and the crucifixes that they donated to the church. Very interesting. As we were leaving, we passed the “wishing wall” a wall full with strips of fabric of prayers or pictures of dying or sick loved ones.
Our next stop was Ephesus.
We arrived and walked into town. Back before Rome changed the national religion, Christians were severely persecuted. So, as a merchants came in there was a special symbol that way they would know what Christians other businesses were, the chthys Wheel. Now, this was also a popular board game of the region, that they adapted so people would know they were followers of Christ. So, if the Roman officials ever came looking they could just say, no this is just a board game. They would put these symbols outside of their houses on the Main Street so others would know. It was fascinating to see them remaining after so much time.
Our first stop within Ephesus was the theater. So, of course in honor of the late great Murray Ross, (My historical theater teacher) I had to perform Agamemnon. There were a lot more people there, giving me a lot more attention than I really wanted so I definitely held back and did not go full Murray Ross, but it’s okay. I at least can say I did it in a Greek theater…. Even though the Greek theater was in fact in turkey.
We went up and explored the stands for a little bit before heading down the street. We past dozens of shops, and several wealthy houses that went up into the hillside and further back…. Set right off the Main Street so that way the wealthy wouldn’t have to roll too far. We also found several Christian houses. Now, the Church of Ephesus wasn’t an actual, physical building, so it was fun wondering if maybe one of the Christian safe houses was the receiver of Paul’s letters.
We went down further and found the 5th avenue of the ancient world. These people had Mosaic streets that were still wonderfully preserved.
And guess what we found?
And guess what we found? A random temple dedicated to our man Hdrian! We sure did. This building was one of the most preserved of the town.
Next, stop… The latrine. Yes. You read that right. I did not misspell that. Public bathrooms. Like the public baths, these were for men only (thank goodness ) where they would hang out, seal the deal and all kinds of manly stuff I have zero desire to be a part of. Too much community for me, personally.
Further down the street from that, was the library. This is the iconic image that everybody sees and thinks about when they think of Ephesus. This library was destroyed, but painstakingly rebuilt by archaeologists in the 1970s which was absolutely wild to me. A apparently, it only took them 6 years to rebuild it. It’s like a jigsaw puzzle that you don’t have the box for so were muy impressed.
We next went through a 3D digital movie of emphasis. They gave us each headphones and packs so we can listen in our own language, and we were escorted into large rooms to hear about the rise and fall of the Temple of Artemis. Again, we think of this site when they were built at that time only. Thousands of years passed in between. So, it’s great to be able to see life in between near the end of the tour. A corner lit up with shining and blazing lights with a voiceover from Artemis. As it progressed, I realized that the video of Artemis wasn’t a video at all…it was the statue they found when they unearthed the site. Absolutely beautiful work and I can’t believe how well preserved. It was just impressive.
As we were leaving, we noticed bunch of guys dressed as Roman centurions and regular slaves walking behind a Marc Anthony and Cleopatra. “It’s time for the show!” Our guide said. She led us to a corner where we would have the best view. In the show, the two slaves fought while the guard stood by. When the winner won, he raised the sword to the neck going diagonal and held it there, waiting for the command of the Marc Anthony character. I raised my thumb. Let the dude live. I bet he died all day. There were so many kids and macho guys there. The Marc Anthony character was more than willing to oblige, and raised his thumb up. We cheered and whooped and it was just good fun. After that, we made our way back to the carport…it was time for St. John’s Basilica.
St John's basilica
was built in the 6th century…several hundred years after John’s death and dedicated to him.
First stop was a diagram of the area, showing just how expansive Ephesus was. The old city used to be on a direct route to the port, but over time the river deposited far too much sediment and silt which pushed back the coastline. After the first time, they simply expanded the river to hold the boats. After the second time, Ephesus was eventually abandoned. Our guide kept saying that because it was abandoned, we were able to see the Roman ruins and I wasn’t sure at first why she continued to say that throughout. Wasn’t until later that I remembered history is built on history. Had the city not been abandoned, it would have just been built up into a modern city. But this one was preserved.
At first, it was hard to find our bearings, but I’m glad that we went to the Vatican first. Once we found the alter, we knew exactly where everything else was. And just like St Peter’s, St John’s tomb room was beneath the altar and labeled with marble.
As we further explored, we noticed some marble pieces in the walls…but not as walls. As mortar..like used as the aggregate to hold the walls together. Who does that? No, one that’s who. Well, the Church did it after the pagan religions were abolished. The temple of Artemis was destroyed, and as a snuff, pieces of it were used as worthless aggregate for the church. So we found all kinds of colors and designs in the mortar. (They would have been covered with the wall) Simply fascinating.
After taking in the sights, it was time for lunch. Our tour guide took us to a small farm, where they served lunch up on the roof. the spread included Olives, pickled beets, a salad that I cannot remember the name of, a regular salad, a yogurt/mint dip, bread, and a delicious olive oil mixed with pomegranate molasses. Absolutely delicious. And the Vibes were so vibey.
We sat eating and drinking above the olive trees, watching the chickens and peacocks go by. Dessert was just simple watermelon. I don’t eat as much of it, but Elijah, who is a self-proclaimed watermelon guru, says it’s the best he’s ever had. Afterward, we went to see how the ladies made their “crafts.”
I hope you see where this is going.
The “craft”, was Turkish rugs.
Now, I actually really appreciated this place. The ladies were in the midst of making the rugs. They would spin the silk…Which we also saw… Dye it into yarn… The tree also saw….. And then weave it into intricate patterns and designs. Absolutely insane. They were doing it the same way it’s been done for hundreds of years. And no, these were not just put there for a show like when “painters” use water color in the street and lightly paint over AI images. No, they were actively doing it, and we’re at varying degrees of finished. If you’ve never seen rugs being made, it’s absolutely crazy to see how much time and effort goes into it, especially the double knotted type the Turks do. Especially the intricate designs that they were doing. I’m not talking about intricate geometric patterns; I’m talking about full-on designs.
One of the designs was a embossed rug of the last supper. Embossed is the best way I can describe it. He said textured, but we didn’t quite know what that meant until we touched it. It meant that the yarn was cut at different lengths and so, it had a feel to it, almost like a carving in stone. The bread was a different level than the basket. For instance. We could feel the feet of the disciples. Absolutely insane.
We were led further into the shop where, of course we were offered tea and sat in a big room.
You absolutely know where this is going now. Yes! We were being sold rugs!
I did tell our story to both Ryan and Carol. They heard our warnings. They knew the signs. But Carol found a horse rug that she was absolutely in love with. And, she also found the last supper that we had touched earlier. For. OBSCENE. Amounts. But, she’s also a WAY better haggler than Nate is and got them down to two rugs for less than the price of one. We sat in shock and awe…somewhat because she still spent a butt-ton of money…but also that she out-haggled the haggler.
We had enough time left to get back to the port and get some last-minute Turkish shopping done. Carole was looking for a chess board, Ryan wanted to try some baklava.
She wanted some ice cream and went to the first one she saw…which so happened to be the Turkish ice cream vendor. Best thing is she had no idea what dude was about. Only Elijah and I did…and we weren’t about to say anything.
I took a video, but again, internet no bueno here, so you’ll have to look it up. Absolutely hysterical, especially since no one else got the joke. Then, it was time to head back.
Man, how they be trying to sell you stuff in Turkey. Everyone calling us into their shops, even after hearing the blast of “last call” from our ship. “You have time! You have time.”
No, we don’t.
Thankfully, the Doyle’s were exhausted and were all shopped out. We made it back with no problem to the ship and managed to even get to the hot tub before we shoved off. Late night fancy dinner and Carole ended the night with a nice massage.
~Dannie
Going places. Making things. Tasting stuff.
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